Seven Answers To The Most Frequently Asked Questions About Beretta Pistols
Accurizing the Beretta Pistols (visit the up coming post) M9 (or 92FS, which will be the model number given to the version that's available to the civilian population in general) is something that competitive shooters are already doing for a while basically, but how you can do it really is a relatively unknown art.
Virtually a simple little survey of sorts. We currently possess the M9 (Beretta 92FS 9mm) as the common issue side arm for some military MOS's.
Luckily, it really is not too much distinctive from what you would need to do to make just about any gun accurate. There are some options that will also make the gun last a whole lot longer if you are a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or even more.
The very difficult part of the whole process is the trigger job itself, that allows the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. to avoid accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull must be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. In the event that you are not just a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that a part of the work. You will be happier with the result for a variety of reasons, not the very least of which is the proven fact that doing a trigger job on a Beretta is a serious pain. It requires several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and out of the gun is difficult even when you have done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull must be.
Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which must be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is done on the sear. Take pictures ahead of removal to ensure you may replace it the way it really is supposed to be. The sear surface has to be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) and also a relief angle cut (similar to what you will do when doing sear work on a 1911) but do not modify the sear angle itself, or the gun may very well be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or any other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to make certain there is consistent sear contact across the entire width of both the hammer hooks.
If you're a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a combination of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.
