Beretta Products Recommendations
Accurizing the Beretta M9 (or 92FS, which is the model number given to the version that is available to the civilian population in general) is a thing that competitive shooters are already doing for a while fundamentally, but how you can do it's a relatively unknown art.
Virtually a simple little survey of sorts. We currently possess the M9 (Beretta Firearms (Kwafoo Coe Neu official website) 92FS 9mm) as the standard issue side arm for many military MOS's.
Luckily, it really is not too much distinctive from what you will need to do to make just about any gun accurate. You will find some options that will also make the gun last a great deal longer in the event that you are a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or even more.
The most challenging involved in the whole process is the trigger job itself, that enables the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. in order to avoid accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull must be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. In the event you are not a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that included in the work. You will be happier with the result for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the idea that doing a trigger job on a Beretta is a significant pain. It needs several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and out of the gun is difficult even when you've done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull needs to be.
Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which has to be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is performed on the sear. Take pictures just before removal to make sure you may replace it the way it is supposed to be. The sear surface has to be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) and a relief angle cut (just like what you would do when doing sear work on a 1911) but do not modify the sear angle itself, or the gun may very well be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to make sure there is consistent sear contact throughout the entire width of both the hammer hooks.
In the event that you are a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a variety of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.
